Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: How do I know what grain broadhead to use?

A: The industry standard for determing point weight, whether broadhead or fieldpoint, is a term called FOC (Forward of Center). The normal accepted ranges of FOC are between 7% and 10% FOC on any given arrow. The method to determine this is as follows. Take your total arrow length, including nock and point. Let's say in this example the arrow length is 30". You then divide the number by 2, which would equal 15", and mark that spot on your arrow. Next lay the arrow on your finger and continue to move the arrow until it balances on your finger. Mark this spot on the arrow. In this example the balance point is at 12". Next, take the measurement between your two marks; in this case it would be 3". Then divide this number by 3 into the overall arrow length (30 inches) equals 10 percent FOC. So it would be within specifications. This is the accepted way to determine point weight average. However, in today's market of speed and carbon arrows the average broadhead weight has generally decreased. The majority of bowhunters today are shooting broadheads of 100 grains or lighter. Remember, your confidence is the MOST important part of shooting and hunting.

Q: Is it ok to leave a 3-D decoy overnight under your treestand? This is something I've wondered about doing, because taking the decoy apart and carrying it out is very troublesome.

A: By all means, do it. It's really a time saver and allows you to focus more on having a stealthy approach as you access your setups on a later hunt. Just disassemble and place behind a log or brush pile near your treestand or setup. Be careful not to leave any scent on the decoy, however, whether it be your order or a commercial deer scent.

Q: I have heard that using a blue filter on a flashlight while blood-trailing an animal after dark makes the blood more visible. Is that true?

A: The blue light certainly aids your ability to see blood. Several of the new LED headlamps offer this blue color. Browning and Surefire are a couple companies that make such lights. Blood seems to glow in the colored beam.

Q: How many sight pins should I have on my bow, and at what distances should they be set?

A: The number of pins depends on the type of game you're hunting, the terrain you're hunting in, your shooting skill, and the speed of your arrows. If hunting only whitetails in woodlands most shots are under 30 yards, one pin set for 20 or 25 yards will be adequate for shots from 5-30 yards. You simply hold a little low or high for animals closer or farther than your pin setting. With a little practice, it'll become automatic. If hunting out west in open country, shots tend to be farther, so you might want to add 2-3 pins. I prefer (Don Beatty) to use no more than 4 pins on my compounds bows. I rarely take a shot of more than 40 to 45 yards, and four pins work fine for me. The most common pin configuration among western hunters is four pins set at 20, 30, 40, and 50 yards. Experiment to see what works best for you, your bow, and the game you intend to hunt. No single answer fits every situation or bowhunter.

Q: Will target practicing from a treestand rather than from the ground make a person a better bowhunter?

A: I can't say it'll make you a better hunter, but it will make you a better shot on game. You're always smart to practice under the same situations in which you will be hunting. I start practicing from the ground in early spring and gradually move to shooting out of treestands two months prior to the start of hunting season. Your prespective is much different shooting from an elevated position, and shooting at a downward angle changes your stance and shooting posture. So practicing for an elevated position only makes sense.

Q: I'm a young hunter who's interested in trying bowhunting and would like some help buying a new bow. I'd also like to know if there are any brands/models that you recommend? Thanks for any information you can provide.

A: There are two models that come to mind. The Browning Micro Midas III with or without the kit. And the Golden Eagle Sparrowhawk II. The Midas is a short bow, measuring only 32" in length and the Sparrowhawk is 36 1/2" long. I suspect the Sparrowhawk would be more forgiving to shoot because of its added length, but the Midas would be easier to manuever in a treestand.

Q: What effect does field dressing deer in your hunting area have?

A: I'd argue that field dressing a deer in an area you want to hunt could actually increase your chances of bagging deer. On various occasions I've observed deer eating the mesentery of another deer I had recently field-dressed. I can't see any negative correlation with a gut pile and the number of deer observed.

Q: I am planning a bear hunt in the spring and am wondering what kind of broadheads to use.

A: I prefer razor sharp 3 or 4 blade heads with fixed or replacement blades, and I personally like broadheads weighing 125 grains (e.g., Rocky Mountain Titanium or Phantom 125's). Second, don't buy a partucular head just because it's recommended by a friend or famous bowhunter. You need to see which head flies well from your setup and is a broadhead you're confident in. Simply look for sturdy, sharp, stable, true-flying broadheads. Finally, bears are tough to put down if you get a marginal hit. I prefer a stationary, broadside shot that allows my arrow to drive its shaving-sharp head through both lungs. Such hits generally guarantee short blood trails and quick recovery.

Q: What exactly does an overdraw do?

A: Overdraws allow an archer to use a shorter (and therefore lighter) arrow to acheive higher arrow velocity and a flatter trajectory. However, overdraws - especially longer overdraws - are generally a bit more critical on any archer's shooting error. This is particulary so of any inconsistencies in bow hand placement on the bow's grip. The result can be unexpected right and left arrows. As a result, we typically recommend relatively short overdraw for those who want to use this route to improve arrow velocity.

Q: What should I look for in a good portable treestand, and can you make any recommendations?

A: I have used a number of portable treestands over the years. I've found portables easy to carry and hang since they lack the weight and bulk of fixed position treestands. They also tend to give you more flexibility through out a day of hunting. As far as comfort goes, I've used a variety of comfy portables including models by Summit, API, Ol' Man Lone Wolf and Ameristep. Lots of treestand refinements have come about in recent years, including mesh and padded seats that make long waits more bearable. Look for a sturdy frame and one that feels comfortable to you. You may be on it for several hours at a time.

Q: I used to shoot my bow quite well until I started practicing with a friend. I developed a flinch prior to my release, and the problem has escalated. What can I do to correct this before I stop shooting completely?

A: "Target panic" is a state of mind that can overwhelm any bowhunter at any-time, and can be very tough to overcome. Since I'm not a doctor I can only give you some recommendations I've read or have heard that have worked for other bowhunters. I recommend you start shooting alone and concentrate on your form and follow through. Shoot only as long as you can concentrate. No matter if it's one shot or 100 it depends on you. As soon as you start to feel "target panic" you should stop. Concentration is the KEY to hitting targets and overcoming this phenomenon. You may have to continue practicing alone to keep your accuracy on edge. Drawing your bow and holding the sights on target without releasing has also helped some archers solve this perplexing problem. After regaining your confidence at short range, slowly move back and increase the distance that your arrow travels to reach the target. Patience and practice, with strong concentration on basic archery principles will help you ovecome this problem that many bowhunters face sometime during their hunting lifetime.

Q: I've heard many different theories about the attention span of a whitetail deer. Many sources suggest that a whitetail has an attention span of approximately 3 mintues, while others suggest that if you spook a buck you won't find it in the same spot again. could you provide some insight on this?

A: A recent study charted the movement of radio-collared bucks in Texas. Bucks were flushed by humans during August and September. On average, once a buck was flushed it traveled from 1,500 to 2,100 feet and was relocated again within 38 minutes. There was a negative relationship between age and distance traveled. Older bucks moved less distance. Middle-age bucks (3 1/2 - 4 1/2 year-olds) traveled the longest distances. In addition, escape distance decreased from the prerut to the postrut to nonrut. Conclusion: really old bucks don't go far when disturbed. Bucks move the most in prerut and the least in nonrut times.

Q: I'd like to increase the draw weight of my bow, but I'm unsure about which way to turn the limb bolts. I know it helps to mark the starting point, but which way do I turn?

A: To increase draw weight you always turn the limb bolts clockwise, which tightens them. Each limb bolt must be turned equally to keep the tiller (distance from the bowstring to the limbs) in its original position. On most bows, one complete turn on both draw limb bolts will increase draw weight from 2 to 4 pounds. It is a good idea to mark the head bolt - you can scratch a mark with a knife point or use an indelible marker - to serve as a gauge for exact bolt movement. This mark will also tell you if your limb bolts are backing out as a result of vibration which sometime results from shooting. Most new bows have set screws to prevent loosening of the limb bolts, but many older bows do not.

Q: I recently added a Kwikee Kwiver to my Mathwes MQ1 bow, but I've since heard that it isn't a good idea to shoot a quick-detach quiver due to excessive noice. Please advice.

A: If you hunt with your quiver on your bow you should tune your bow and practice shooting it with the quiver attached. When mounted correctly, Kwikee Kwiver's quick-detach bowquiver won't make excessive noise. You made a good choice. Stick with it.

Q: My son is about to have his sixth birthday, and I'd like to get him his first bow. I don't have a lot of money to spend, but I want to get my son outfitted correctly.

A: Six is a very good age to start a youngster in archery. Every major bow company manfactures youth model bows, but I'd take a good look around before buying a bow for your son. The secret is finding a bow that offers the adjustability your child will need as he/she grows. I'm most familiar with Browning's Micro Midas, which comes in both RH and LH models with 10 inches of draw-legnth adjustment and many suitable draw weight ranges. I put my wife into one as her first bow. She LOVES it!

Q: I plan to fletch my own arrows and am wondering what the difference is between left helical, right helical and straight? I shoot left handed while my father shoots right with a release.

A: Your question is a rather common one. It doesn't matter whether you shoot left or right helical fletching from either a left - or - right handed bow. We strongly suggest you shoot helical fletching rather than straight. Helical fletching, either right or left, will stabilize your broadhead-tipped arrows faster and considerably better than straight fletching. Since it doesn't matter if you use left or right helical you can easily get by with just one clamp for your jig, thus saving you money when purchasing equipment. Be sure to follow the directions to properly clean you shafts, and use a recommended adhesive when you fletch.

Q: I have seen red dot scopes advertised for bows in catalogs. How well do they work? Presently, I have a five pin sight with a light and glow sticks, and I use a peep sight. But, I have difficulty shooting in low light, and I'm seeking an alternative.

A: A red dot scope, mounted on a modern compound bow, works well, primarily as a single-yardage setup. The mounting bracket is adjustable for different ranges, but it can be a bit cumbersome for quick yardage changes during a hunt. Another option to try would be to add a c-peep, which allows maximum light transmission, has been popular among bowhunters having problems seeing their pins in low light.

Q: I had to remove my pin sights to attach a new quiver onto my bow. Once I reattach my sigths, will I have to re-sight by bow, or will the sights be the same as they were before?

A: Not knowing what type of quiver you mounted poses a bit of a problem. If your bow quiver's support arm had to be mounted under the original sight position, then your sight setting would definatley change (left to right) because it's now positioned farther from the riser. With most modern bows this is rarely the case. If your sight we re-mounted in its original position next the to the riser and stradled by the quiver mounting holes in the sight, then your original pin settings will be very close. Even the simple act of re-mounting the sight in the same holes can alter the sight angle slightly. The smart move is to always re-sight to be sure of your shot.

Q: What is the gestation period for a whitetail deer?

A: The average gestation period for a whitetail deer is 200 days. But, just like people, this time period can vary from 183 to 208 days. Thus, assuming that a doe is bred on November 14, the expected birth date is June 2. This is why biologists always say that a doe will drop her fawns near the end of May to the beginning of June. This concides with the time that native vegatation is most succulent and nutritious.

Q: I'm going bear hunting this fall for the first time, and I'd like to learn more about bear anatomy and good shot placement. Do you know of any good publications on this subject?

A: One of the best books we've read on shot placement is "The Perfect Shot" by Craig Boddington. It's illustrated and covers all North American big game animals. Another on is M.R. James book "The Bowhunter's Handbook" and is available at www.shop.bowhunter.com or 1.800.260.6397. We've learned the best shot is one taken at a stationary animal standing broadside or quartering slightly away. Concentrate on placing a razor-sharp broadhead through both lungs, holding on a mid-body spot several inches behind the front shoulder.

Q: Just before dark on the second day of bow season I took a shot at a hunge 8-point buck. While I know the buck escaped unharmed, I haven't seen him since. Do you think I spooked him out of the area?

A: The buck most likely will not immediately return to the spot where you took the shot at him. We are confident he did not leave his home range. Deer are pretty much homebodies unless they receive a ton of pressure. Radio telemetry studies have proven this over and over. While the buck you shot at may go nocturnal or completely vacate the area where you shot at him, in all likelyhood he's still in your hunting area.

Q: What is the best time to start rattling whitetails?

A: We carry a rattle bag starting in early October, though seldom do more than some gentle sparring until the approach of the rut later in the month. When fresh rubs and scrapes begin to appear, we'll go through one to two minutes of rattling every 45-60 minutes. We've had the best rattling success during this prerut period when bucks are on the move and starting to feel the urge to breed and are willing to fight for the breeding rights.

Q:. I keep hearing about kinetic energy and its importance when shooting a bow. What exactly is it?

A: Kinetic energy is the energy possessed by a moving object by reason of its mass and velocity, or simply, how hard and arrow strikes its target. To calculate it precisely you'd need to chronograph your arrow speed and weigh an arrow on a grain scale. Once you have these exacty values, use the formula below. The final figure equals kinetic energy in foot-pounds.

KE = (arrow speed) x (arrow speed) x (arrow weight)
                                             450,240